Gardening Resources - Denver Urban Gardens

Critter-Proofing Your Community Garden

communications — Wed, 09 Jul 2025 19:46:59 +0000

If you’ve ever arrived at your shared plot to find gnawed stems, toppled transplants, or fresh tunnels, you’ve encountered some of Denver’s most determined intruders. In community gardens where beds, compost bins, sheds, and fences are all shared, rabbits, voles, rats, and squirrels can turn one gardener’s headache into everyone’s crisis almost overnight.

Whether you’re a Garden Leader overseeing the entire site or a gardener focused on a single bed, the solution is the same: coordinated, low-tech habits that make the whole garden uninviting to pests. Fold the strategies below into workdays and daily plot care to keep harvests intact and critters out.

#1 Fortify the Perimeter — Keep invaders from digging, squeezing, or hopping inside.

Install wildlife fencing 2 ft high with 1 in mesh (or tighter); bury the bottom 4–6 in or flare it outward to stop diggers.
Line raised beds and compost bins with ¼-in galvanized hardware cloth.
Close the gaps— even a hand-width opening under a gate invites rabbits.

#2 Cover the Crops — Shield ripening produce and tender seedlings.

Drape lightweight row covers or bird netting over salad greens, tomatoes, and strawberries during peak munching season.
Stretch mesh over simple hoop frames so gardeners can lift a corner and harvest without removing the whole cover.

#3 Control the Menu — Eliminate easy snacks.

Harvest promptly and remove windfall produce every visit; one overripe squash can fuel an all-night buffet.
Store seeds and fertilizers in chew-proof containers—metal trash cans with tight-fitting lids work best.
Compost wisely: stick to garden debris only; never add kitchen scraps to community piles.

#4 Tidy Shared Spaces & Eliminate Hideouts — Reduce shelter and nesting spots.

Keep paths mowed and brush trimmed back from bed edges.
Elevate pallets and move lumber piles off-site.
Skirt sheds and greenhouse walls with a ¼-in mesh strip or a 6-in gravel collar to block burrows.

#5 Deploy Gentle Deterrents — Make the garden unpredictable and unappetizing.

Hang reflective streamers, pinwheels, or old CDs so light and motion surprise daytime raiders.
Rotate taste repellents—garlic-pepper spray, vinegar solution, or commercial “critter-ridder”—every couple of weeks so animals don’t acclimate.

#6 Recruit Natural Allies — Let predators share the workload.

Preserve existing high perches—mature trees, utility poles, and street-light arms give owls ready-made hunting lookouts. Where space allows, mount a screech-owl box 10–15 ft up a sturdy trunk.
Create a “snake lane”: stack a low brush or log pile just outside the fence so harmless garter snakes can shelter by day and patrol for voles at dusk.
Skip poisons and glue traps; rodenticides can sicken or kill owls, kestrels, and snakes through secondary poisoning. If trapping is essential, use snap traps secured inside locked boxes.

#7 Coordinate as a Community — Turn individual habits into a unified defense.

Hold brief site-wide inspection walks each month so fresh tunnels or chew marks are spotted early.
Post clear compost rules—plant debris only, no kitchen scraps—on the bulletin board and in work-day emails.
Audit tools and supplies seasonally; designate a rotating “shed steward” to keep storage areas sealed and tidy.
Maintain a rapid-response group chat so critter sightings are shared instantly and action is taken before problems balloon.

Critter-proofing succeeds when every gardener treats the entire site—not just their own plot—as a shared food system. Strong perimeters, tidy aisles, smart deterrents, and consistent communication dramatically reduce damage while keeping the garden wildlife-friendly where it counts.

The post Critter-Proofing Your Community Garden first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

Snip Smart: How Pruning Your Veggies Boosts Production and Fights Disease

communications — Mon, 23 Jun 2025 22:08:31 +0000

Let’s face it: gardening on the Colorado Front Range isn’t for the faint of heart. One day you’re sweating in the sun, the next you’re throwing bedsheets over your plants to fend off a surprise hailstorm. Between high-altitude UV, dry air, and unpredictable weather swings, your veggie garden needs all the support it can get.

One of the easiest, most overlooked ways to help your plants thrive? Pruning.

Think of it like this: pruning is plant therapy. A few well-placed snips can improve airflow, cut down on disease, and tell your veggies to stop wasting time on leafy drama and focus on what matters—making delicious food.

Whether you’re growing tomatoes in raised beds, cukes along a cattle panel, or a jungle of kale in a corner of your garden, here’s your guide to smart pruning practices that work with Denver’s unique climate—not against it.

Tomatoes: Prune Like a Pro

Tomatoes have big personalities: grow fast, sprawl everywhere, and demand your attention. Without guidance, they’ll grow into tangled messes, full of leaves but light on fruit. That’s why a bit of structure goes a long way.

Denver-specific tips:

Pinch those suckers (the little shoots between the main stem and branches). This helps indeterminate varieties focus on vertical growth and fruiting.
Create airflow by removing the lower leaves—ideally up to 6–8 inches from the soil line. This reduces risk of splash diseases like early blight, which is more common after rain or hand-watering.

Shade matters: Don’t go overboard. In our intense sun, tomatoes need some leaf coverage to prevent sunscald on ripening fruit. In the heat of summer, consider adding shade cloth, attaching the material to a simple support system, such as tall posts

Peppers: A Little Goes a Long Way

Peppers don’t need much pruning, but a few thoughtful cuts can help them stand strong in Denver’s gusty winds and heat spikes.

Tips:

Top (pinch or cut off the main growing tip) the central stem once they’re about 8–10 inches tall to encourage branching and a sturdier base.
Thin the canopy just enough to let in light and airflow—without exposing fruit to scorching rays.
Harvest often to keep production rolling. The more you pick, the more they give.

Cucumbers & Squash: Reclaim the Jungle

Cukes and squash love to sprawl—and in doing so, they can become pest hotels if not kept in check. In our dry but stormy climate, keeping the vines tidy improves both health and harvest.

Tips:

Train them up if you can. Trellised cucumbers are easier to prune and harvest, plus growing them vertically also lessens the onset of diseases.
Trim unnecessary runners that aren’t producing flowers or fruit.
Snip yellowing or spotty leaves to reduce disease and keep airflow high.

Melons & Pumpkins: Fewer Fruits, Bigger Results

If you want a big, beautiful pumpkin or sweet, juicy melon, you’ll need to stop your plant from spreading itself too thin.

Tips:

Limit fruit count per vine so the plant can channel energy into size and flavor.
Prune trailing tips after fruit sets to encourage ripening instead of more sprawl.
Keep vines dry with mulch to prevent rot and mildew.

Leafy Greens: Harvest = Pruning

Greens are low maintenance when it comes to pruning—but how you harvest them matters. Remember, everything in the garden has a preferred season of growth; leafy greens are prime candidates for spring and fall, but ‘unhappy’ in the heat of summer.

Tips:

Take the outer leaves first, and leave the center to keep growing.
Remove yellow or damaged leaves to improve airflow and keep pests away.
Harvest early and often—especially before hot summer temps cause bolting.

Beans & Peas: Low-Key Pruning

These climbing legumes don’t need much snipping, but a little shaping can help them stay productive and neat.

Tips:

Snip the top of tall vines once they reach the top of their trellis to encourage side shoots and more pod production.
Trim any tangled or overcrowded vines to keep air circulating and prevent disease.
Guide vines and prune as needed so pods stay visible and within reach—future you will appreciate it come harvest time!

Denver-Specific Pruning Reminders

Always prune in dry weather with dry leaves to avoid spreading disease.
Water at the base of plants, not overhead—especially after pruning.
Mulch to reduce splashback, decrease disease prevalence and spread, and retain moisture in our dry soil.
Use clean, sharp tools—and disinfect with chlorine-free bleach between pruning cuts if you suspect disease.

The Final Snip

Remember, pruning isn’t about being a garden perfectionist—it’s about giving your plants space to breathe, sunlight to thrive, and a clear sense of purpose. In Denver’s climate, where the sun is fierce, the storms are sudden, and the air is quite dry, these little cuts can make a big difference.

So grab your garden shears, channel your inner veggie whisperer, and prune with confidence. Your tomatoes will be juicier, your cucumbers less chaotic, and your garden a whole lot happier.

The post Snip Smart: How Pruning Your Veggies Boosts Production and Fights Disease first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes

communications — Tue, 27 May 2025 16:07:40 +0000

Have you ever heard someone mention “determinate” or “indeterminate” tomatoes and wondered what the heck they were talking about?

Whether you’re planting in raised beds, containers, or an in-ground plot, understanding the difference between these two types of tomatoes is key. Both types come with their own needs, advantages, and harvest patterns, and choosing the right one can mean more tomatoes, less stress, and a garden that works with your goals, not against them.

The Basics: What’s the Difference?

Determinate tomatoes—often called “bush” tomatoes—grow to a certain height (usually 3–4 feet), set fruit over a relatively short period, and then stop growing. They produce most of their fruit within a few weeks, making them ideal for gardeners who want a concentrated harvest, such as for canning or preserving.

Indeterminate tomatoes, by contrast, are “vining” varieties. They continue to grow, flower, and produce fruit until killed by frost. They can reach 6 feet or taller and require regular pruning and staking or caging. These tomatoes provide a steady trickle of fruit throughout the summer and early fall.

Timing: Season Length and Denver’s Short Growing Window

Denver’s Front Range climate poses a challenge: short growing seasons, intense sun, and sudden hailstorms. The average frost-free growing period in Denver is about 150 days, typically from mid-May to late September. That’s enough time for tomatoes to mature—but just barely, depending on the variety.

Determinate Advantage: Because determinate tomatoes mature faster—many are ready to harvest in 65–75 days—they’re a great fit for gardeners aiming to beat the first fall frost. They’re ideal for gardeners planting later in the season or working with cool spring soil, since you’re more likely to get a full harvest even if the season is cut short.

Indeterminate Consideration: Indeterminate varieties can take 80–100+ days to reach full maturity, which means they may not produce ripe fruit until August. In Denver’s unpredictable fall, you may need to protect these plants from early frost with row cover or harvest tomatoes green if we get a sudden early fall snow.

Spacing and Location: Fitting Tomatoes Into Your Garden Layout

Determinate tomatoes have a compact, bushy shape, making them perfect for container gardens, raised beds, or tight spaces. Their smaller size also means they’re less likely to suffer damage from Denver’s strong summer winds or hailstorms. They need only light support—usually a tomato cage or short stake will suffice.

Indeterminate tomatoes, however, require more vertical space and structural support. Left unpruned, they’ll sprawl across your garden and shade out nearby plants. In Denver’s arid climate, training them upward using trellises, tall cages, or sturdy stakes not only saves space but also improves airflow and reduces fungal diseases like early blight, which can otherwise take hold during our occasional wet spells.

Yield: Bulk vs. Season-Long Harvest

If your goal is to make sauce, salsa, or preserve your harvest, determinate varieties are the way to go. Their synchronized fruiting means you’ll have a large harvest all at once—perfect for batch cooking or freezing. Some gardeners even do two plantings of determinate tomatoes: one early and one mid-season for a second flush before fall.

However, if you want fresh tomatoes for slicing all summer long, indeterminate varieties are your best bet. They offer a slow-and-steady supply of fruit that can last from mid-late July until the first frost. In Denver’s sunny summers, indeterminates often produce abundant fruit as long as they’re well-fed, watered consistently, and pruned regularly.

Other Considerations for Denver Gardeners

Soil and Heat Management: Tomatoes love heat, but Denver’s intense sun and high-altitude dryness can be harsh. Mulching around the base of both types of plants helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Determinate plants, being lower to the ground, benefit even more from mulch and ground cover, which can help prevent sunscald and dry-out. Indeterminates, especially when grown vertically, benefit from shade cloth during extreme heat waves to protect ripening fruit from sunburn.

Hail Protection: Given Denver’s notorious summer hailstorms, determinates may be slightly less vulnerable due to their shorter stature and bushier habit. Indeterminates, with their exposed vertical growth, are more likely to sustain damage. Savvy gardeners use hoop tunnels with floating row cover or shade cloth for both types during the late spring/early summer storm season.

Pruning and Maintenance: Determinate tomatoes generally require less work. Because they stop growing once they set fruit, pruning is minimal—just remove suckers low on the plant as needed. Indeterminate tomatoes, however, need regular pruning of suckers and lower leaves to manage disease and encourage larger fruit. This ongoing attention can be a plus or minus depending on how much time you want to spend tending your plants.

Recommended Varieties for the Front Range

Determinate:

Roma: Classic paste tomato, productive and early.
Bush Early Girl: Great for containers, matures quickly.
Celebrity: Disease-resistant and reliable.
Patio Princess: Perfect for small pots and balconies.

Indeterminate:

Brandywine: Large heirloom with rich flavor.
Sungold: Sweet cherry tomato, great yield.
Cherokee Purple: A beloved slicing tomato.
Better Boy: Vigorous and consistent producer.

Final Thoughts

Both determinate and indeterminate tomatoes have their advantages for the Colorado gardener. Our recommendation? Grow both. A few bushy determinates for early and bulk harvests, plus a couple of well-supported indeterminates for late-summer snacking, offer the best of both worlds—and a steady tomato supply from late July until the end of the season.

The post Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

Herbalism Walk in Baker Neighborhood

communications — Wed, 14 May 2025 19:31:51 +0000

This self-guided herbalism walk map features the Baker Neighborhood and explores medicinal plants that grow in Denver, including oak and catmint.

Urban Plant Walk Map

The walk starts and ends at the Denver Urban Gardens Fairmont Community Garden (520 W. Third Ave., Denver, CO 80223). Here is our suggested route:

Begin at the entrance gate to the Fairmont DCIS School Community Garden, head west along W 2nd Ave.
Turn right onto Fox St. and walk north.
At the corner of Fox St. and W 3rd Ave., cross the street to the west side of Fox. Turn left and head south on Fox.
Cross W 2nd Ave. and continue heading south on Fox St.
Take a left on W 1st Ave. and a left back on to Fox St. Head north on the east side of Fox.
Turn right onto W 2nd Ave. heading east.

Medicinal Plants

Artemisia

Artemisia, or wormwood, is a hardy perennial native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere.

It thrives in full sun and well-drained soil. Artemisia has a long history as a medicinal herb. Though, it’s quite challenging to drink as a tea – the leaves are very bitter. The plant’s aromatic qualities make it a wonderful herb for burning as a smoke cleanse. Its silvery-blue quality is often an easy way to identify it from afar.

Red Clover

Red clover is a nitrogen-fixing plant that can help improve soil health.

It’s often used as forage for livestock. But it makes fine food for humans, too! The flowers can be eaten raw in salads or tossed into soups and stews. The flowering tops and leaves can be brewed into a nutrient rich tea, too; its flavor is surprisingly rich and a little sweet.

Prickly Pear

Prickly Pear is native to this land.

It prefers arid, well-drained soil and full sun, which is why you’ll often see it thriving in the southwest. This cactus is planted as a funky ornamental, and is useful for erosion control. The cactus pads (nopales) can be eaten in various culinary dishes. And the sweet fruits can be prepared and eaten raw, or made into beverages. Prickly Pear is used medicinally to address wounds, inflammation, and digestive issues. Take caution observing and harvesting this plant! The pads and fruits are covered in tiny glochids or hair-like spines that will poke you! These little spines must be carefully removed before consumption.

Plantain

Plantain is a water-loving weedy species that likes to grow in irrigated lawns, in ditches, and along waterways.

This is broadleaf plantain, though another species, narrow leaf plantain is also common in the mountain west. Plantain is antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and itch-relieving. The leaves can be chewed into a gooey gob of poultice and applied topically to stings, bites and splinters to relieve itch, and reduce heat and swelling. The leaves can also be dried and infused into oil to make a bug bite salve.

Pine

Pine trees offer an abundance of utility.

They provide timber and a delicious, sweet-smelling resin which can be burned on charcoal, or infused into olive oil for topical application. Their needles can be brewed in hot water to yield a tea rich in vitamin C. I love simply plucking a cluster of needles off a tree and chewing on the end to enjoy their resinous, lemony taste.

Peach

Peach is often not considered a medicinal plant.

Known for its delicious, fuzzy fruits, peach trees are also used as a cooling, anti-inflammatory, nervous system soothing plant. You can make an alcohol extract of the leaves and flowers to take as a calming remedy for nervousness or situational anxiety. The leaves can also be infused into olive oil to be used topically to relieve hot, red, dry, itchy skin conditions.

Oak

Oak trees offer an abundance of useful material, food and medicine.

Their bark is extremely astringent, and can be brewed as a hot tea to be used as a topical wash for cuts, scrapes and rashes. Once cooled, the tea can also be used as a mouthwash to relieve inflammation and irritation of the gums. Oak’s acorns have been treasured as a wild food, too. Acorns can be processed to make a delicious flour for baking; the flavor is warm, nutty and caramel-like.

Maple

Maple is best known for providing beautiful hardwood and delicious syrup.

But the tea of maple’s leaves has also been used as an anti-inflammatory and astringent wash for cuts, scrapes, and rashes.

Linden

Linden trees are typically planted in urban areas for their shade and ornamental qualities.

The fragrant, creamy blossoms and deep green leaves can be brewed into a calming tea that is used to relieve anxiety and soothe the nervous system. The leaves and flowers can also be tinctured in alcohol and used for the same purposes. Leaves can be harvested and used for medicine even after this tree’s flowers have faded.

Lambsquarters

Lambsquarters are a delicious, nutritious weed.

The leaves can be harvested, washed and eaten raw in salads, or cooked in soups, stews, quiches and more. Their salty flavor and succulent texture make them a worthy wild substitute for cultivated spinach.

Juniper

Juniper is an evergreen shrub or tree that produces resious cones (often called berries).

The “berries” can be brewed as a tea, or tinctured in alcohol. This plant has historically been used as a digestive aid, helping to relieve digestive woes like gas, bloating and indigestion.

Dandelion

Dandelion is a well known weedy specimen.

Hardy and tenacious, it thrives in various soils and conditions. The leaves, flowers, and roots are all both edible and medicinal. Dandelion leaf is used medicinally as a diuretic and can make a nutrient dense tea. The flowers are rich in carotenoids and water soluble vitamin C. The root is replete with a prebiotic fiber called inulin, which extracts well in water. The root’s rich, bittersweet flavor makes it a perfect addition to herbal coffee blends, too.

Common Mallow

Common mallow is a hardy weedy species that can be used as a medicinal food and an herbal medicine.

When brewed in hot or cold water, its leaves and roots produce mucilage, a viscous, gooey substance that is soothing to tissues of the body and thickening for foods. You can drink some common mallow tea (using leaf or root) to soothe a sore throat or an upset tummy. The leaves can also be added to soups, stews and curries to thicken them up and add some nutritional density!

Catmint

Catmint is an aromatic herb that’s often treasured for its sweet purple flowers and ability to repel mosquitos.

Catmint leaves can be used in teas to relieve stress and a crampy, nervous tummy. This gentle mint family herb can also be used to help encourage restful sleep.

California Poppy

Despite its delicate look, california poppy is a hardy perennial that can easily hold up in the hot, dry Colorado climate.

The whole plant can be harvested fresh and preserved in alcohol as a tincture. California poppy is a gentle sedative and pain relieving herb that is safe for kids and elders alike. It can be used to relieve musculoskeletal pain, soften anxiety, and encourage restful sleep. The leaves and stems of this delicate plant are a characteristic dusky blue. The velvety, bright orange petals open in the sun and close tight after sundown.

Bee Balm

Bee balm, or Monarda, is a medicinal and edible herb that’s native to North America.

It thrives in moist, well-drained soil and full sun. This plant’s electric lilac colored blossoms attract pollinators, making it a favorite in gardens. Decorative varieties can also be found in bright pink and deep red shades. Bee balm leaves and flowers can be used to make tea, which is traditionally used to address respiratory issues and digestive problems. The fresh flowering tops can be added to a respiratory steam to provide relief from stubborn coughs and persistent congestion. Its essential oil has antimicrobial properties, too.

Rose

Rose plants are prized for their beauty and aroma, but they offer a wealth of medicinal virtue, too.

Medicinally, rose petals are used to resolve skin issues and to calm the nervous system. Rose’s astringent, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory qualities also makes it a fabulous plant for addressing minor first aid issues like cuts and scrapes. The hips, or fruits of the rose, are rich in vitamin C and flavonoids, and can be brewed into a tart, fruity tea.

Shepherd’s Purse

Shepherd’s purse grows in various soils and conditions, thriving in full sun to partial shade.

It can be found in the neglected understories of city trees. Often considered a weed, it is beneficial for soil health. This plant is in the Brassicaceae plant family, making it a relative of some of our favorite cruciferous veggies like kale, collards, cabbage and broccoli. The leaves and seeds can be eaten, and it’s traditionally used as an anti-inflammatory herb.

Siberian Elm

Siberian elm is another mucilaginous (aka: goopy and soothing) tree!

The leaves and outer bark of twigs can be harvested and brewed in water (either hot or cold) to make a deeply hydrating and satisfying drink for dry summer days. Simply let some of the leaves or bark brew in your water anywhere from 15 minutes and up to overnight. The longer you brew the bark or leaves, the goopier your drink will be! Siberian elm is considered an invasive species; these trees grow quickly and spread widely, shading other plants that might grow around them.

Spearmint

Spearmint is a hardy perennial herb that can grow in full sun to partial shade.

It spreads aggressively through its rhizomes (underground stems), making it best suited for contained garden spaces or pots to prevent it from overtaking other plants. Spearmint is beloved for its aromatic, bright green leaves and refreshing minty flavor. Its leaves can be harvested throughout the growing season and used fresh or dried in teas. Spearmint tea is a popular remedy for digestive woes, including indigestion, gas, and nausea.

Tree of Heaven

Tree of heaven is a super fast-growing deciduous tree.

This invasive species is often used in urban landscaping. Despite its cool, tropical look, it’s considered problematic due to its rapid spread. I always try to look out for plants in its understory that I could replant elsewhere where they’ll have more access to sunlight!

Wild Lettuce

Wild lettuce is known and loved for its sedative and pain-relieving properties.

Snap a leaf off the stem and you’ll notice a milky sap leaking from the plant. This bitter milky sap can be harvested and used as a natural remedy for insomnia, anxiety, and pain. The best way to prepare wild lettuce is as a tincture, or an alcohol extract of the herb.

The post Herbalism Walk in Baker Neighborhood first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

Sensory Plants for Your Garden

communications — Thu, 01 May 2025 19:11:04 +0000

This list highlights plants that engage the senses—sight, smell, touch, taste, and sound—that grow well on the Front Range. We also feature a Sensory Scavenger Hunt for Kids perfect for curious minds and inspiring wonder in the garden.

Explore our sensory plant recommendations for Front Range gardening!

Bells of Ireland (Moluccella laevis)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Tall spires with green, bell-shaped calyxes and small white flowers inside. Adds dramatic vertical interest.
Sensory Use: Touch & Sound – The papery texture and rustling bells are intriguing for little fingers and ears.

Source: Annie’s Heirloom Seeds

Portulaca – Moss Rose (Portulaca grandiflora)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: A low-growing succulent with vivid, rose-like flowers in warm hues. Drought-tolerant.
Sensory Use: Sight & Touch – Brilliant blooms catch the eye; fleshy leaves invite gentle squeezing.

Source: New Jersey Yards

Pink Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Clusters of flat-topped pink flowers above ferny foliage. Perennial and pollinator-friendly.
Sensory Use: Touch & Smell – Soft, feathery leaves and a spicy, herbal scent when crushed.

Source: Eden Brothers

Gaillardia ‘Arizona Artist’ (Blanket Flower)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Low-maintenance daisy-like flowers with warm red and orange hues.
Sensory Use: Sight & Pollinator Sound – Eye-catching blooms attract buzzing bees and fluttering butterflies.

Source: Select Seeds

Monarda fistulosa (Wild Bergamot)

Sun/Shade: Full sun to part shade
Description: Lavender-pink, tufted flowers with minty aromatic foliage. Native and hardy.
Sensory Use: Smell & Taste – Leaves can be steeped for tea; flowers smell sweet and minty.

Source: Turner Seed

Licorice Mint (Agastache foeniculum)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Tall spikes of purple blooms with an anise-scented aroma. Long blooming season.
Sensory Use: Smell & Taste – Leaves and flowers have a sweet licorice scent and can be used in teas.

Source: Adaptive Seeds

Tulsi Basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum / Holy Basil)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Sacred in many cultures, tulsi has small purple flowers and a spicy, clove-like aroma.
Sensory Use: Smell & Taste – Uplifting fragrance; traditionally used for calming teas.

Source: One Drop Farm

Lemon Basil (Ocimum basilicum var. citriodorum)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Bright green leaves with a lemony scent and flavor. Compact and easy to grow.
Sensory Use: Smell & Taste – Sharp citrus scent energizes the senses; delicious in salads and teas.

Source: Everwilde Farms

Columbine ‘Crystal Star’ (Aquilegia spp.)

Sun/Shade: Part shade
Description: Elegant white flowers with long spurs, resembling delicate stars. Native-friendly.
Sensory Use: Sight – Whimsical and delicate form engages visual curiosity.

Source: Seed Corner

Artemisia annua (Sweet Annie)

Sun/Shade: Full sun to part shade
Description: Lacy green foliage with an intensely sweet, herbal scent. Fast-growing annual.
Sensory Use: Smell – Strongly fragrant foliage adds aromatic depth to garden spaces. Artemisia annua has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for fevers, inflammation, headaches

Source: The Garden Diaries

Mexican Tarragon (Tagetes lucida)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Glossy green leaves with small yellow flowers and an anise flavor.
Sensory Use: Smell & Taste – A warm licorice scent; edible flowers and leaves make lovely tea.

Source: Seedville USA

Tangerine Marigold (Tagetes tenuifolia)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Compact, bushy marigold with citrus-scented leaves and tiny orange flowers.
Sensory Use: Smell & Taste – Leaves smell like tangerines; edible petals have a tangy flavor.

Source: High Mowing Seeds

Brilliant Cockscomb (Celosia cristata)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Unique, crested blooms resembling coral or velvet brain-like structures in hot pinks and reds.
Sensory Use: Sight & Touch – Fascinating shape and soft, velvety texture invite exploration.

Source: Epic Gardening

Crimson Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Round, clover-like flowers in vibrant crimson. Drought-tolerant and long-lasting.
Sensory Use: Sight & Touch – Tactile blooms keep their color when dried; perfect for crafts.

Source: The San Diego Seed Company

Strawflower (Xerochrysum bracteatum)

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Description: Papery, daisy-like flowers in a rainbow of colors. Excellent for drying.
Sensory Use: Touch & Sound – Crisp texture and gentle crinkling sound when touched.

Source: Epic Gardening

Sensory Scavenger Hunt for Kids

Use this Sensory Scavenger Hunt to spark curiosity and help young (and young-at-heart!) gardeners experience the magic of the garden through all five senses

Detectives! Can you find these smells in the garden?

A flower that smells like chocolate
A herb you use on pizza
A plant that smells like peppermint
A plant that smells like lemon candy

Gently touch plants and find different textures in the garden.

Something that feels soft, like a lamb
Something that feels rubbery
Something that is coarse or bumpy

Sounds:

If you could create a band from nature, what plants would you include? What sounds would they make?
What animals can you hear?
Do you hear plants in the garden?

Taste:

Find something that tastes sweet
Something that reminds you of pizza
Find a taste you would describe as crunchy

Sight:

Find 5 plants that are different shades of the same color
Find a plant that from close up looks like an animal
Observe a flower from 20 feet away for about 30 seconds. Take 2 steps forward and note what additional features you see. Keep doing that until you are about 2 inches away from the flower.

The post Sensory Plants for Your Garden first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

Garden Scavenger Hunts for Kids

communications — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 21:06:47 +0000

At the heart of childhood development is a deep and natural curiosity. In the garden, there are endless opportunities to nurture that curiosity while also tending to the land. To help encourage self-guided exploration, DUG has created simple scavenger hunts designed to engage young gardeners in a fun, respectful way—aligned with our Community Agreements:

Earth Care: We help the garden grow by being gentle with plants and staying on the paths.
People Care: We share the garden with others and touch gently but don’t take.
Fair Share: Everyone gets a turn to find cool things in the garden.

Scavenger hunts are a fantastic tool for inspiring children to take the lead in their garden experience. What begins as a simple checklist often grows into a deeper exploration, sparking new questions and discoveries.

These activities also support important developmental outcomes, including sensory awareness, observational learning, and an early appreciation for local ecosystems.

Exploring Bugs

Gardens are alive with activity, and the insects we find there are some of the most diverse and fascinating creatures. Encouraging children to observe pollinators like bees and ladybugs—and even to learn about unwanted visitors like Japanese beetles—builds a deeper respect for the vital role that all insects play in the growing cycle, whether positive or negative.

Exploring the Garden Fruits

From summer through early fall, gardens overflow with fruits and vegetables ready to be explored. Crops like tomatoes, squash, and beans offer endless opportunities for young gardeners to see, touch, and taste biodiversity up close. Observing and interacting with plants commonly grown in Colorado helps children build a lasting connection to the food they eat and fosters a greater understanding of the natural world.

Exploring Senses

The garden is a sensory playground waiting to be discovered. Activities like 3’s the Magic Number invite children to engage their senses through counting, observing, and touching different textures, shapes, and scents. Sensory-based scavenger hunts support motor skills, language development, and creative expression, all while deepening a child’s bond with the natural world.

The post Garden Scavenger Hunts for Kids first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

Growing Potatoes in Your Garden

communications — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 20:38:32 +0000

Growing your own potatoes is an affordable way to reduce grocery costs while enjoying nutritious, high-fiber food. They’re a versatile crop that can be used in a variety of ways, making them a great addition to your backyard or balcony garden.

Our Favorite Varieties:

German Butterball

Maturation Time: (85-115 Days)
Best uses: Roasting, mashing, baking, frying, and soups

German Butterball is an heirloom favorite known for its exceptional flavor and versatility. These round to oblong potatoes have a flaky yet moist texture that shines in everything from mashed potatoes to crispy roasts. A top performer in taste tests, they also store well and yield heavily in the garden.

Image courtesy of Grand Teton Organics

Russet Potatoes

Maturation Time: 85-115 days
Best uses: Baking, mashing, frying (French fries, hash browns), roasting

Their high starch content and low moisture yield a light, fluffy interior when baked or mashed, and a crisp exterior when fried. These characteristics make them ideal for classic dishes such as baked potatoes, French fries, and creamy mashed potatoes. However, due to their tendency to break down when cooked, they are less suitable for recipes requiring the potatoes to hold their shape, like potato salads.

Image courtesy of Grand Teton Organics

Yukon Gold

Maturation Time: 65-75 days
Best uses: Roasting, mashing, boiling, baking, sautéing

Yukon Golds are prized for their versatility in the kitchen. Their medium starch and moisture content make them suitable for a wide range of cooking methods, while their naturally buttery flavor and creamy texture allow them to shine in dishes with minimal seasoning. They store best in a cool, dark place with good ventilation. Due to their higher sugar content, they have a shorter storage life compared to russet potatoes.

Image courtesy of Grand Teton Organics

Getting Started with Seed Potatoes:

The first step to success is choosing the right seed potatoes. These are not the same as grocery store potatoes, which are often treated to prevent sprouting. Certified seed potatoes are disease-free and bred specifically for planting.

Choosing Your Location:

Potatoes grow best in loose, well-draining soil that’s rich in organic matter. Choose a sunny spot where the plants will get at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. When planting, think ahead. Crop rotation is key to avoiding disease—don’t plant potatoes (or other nightshades like tomatoes) in the same spot year after year.

Preparing Soil and Planting:

Potatoes grow best in loose, well-draining soil that’s rich in organic matter. Choose a sunny spot where the plants will get at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day.

Before planting, you can cut larger seed potatoes into chunks, making sure each piece has at least one or two “eyes.” Let the cut pieces sit for a day or two to allow the surfaces to callous over—this helps prevent rot once they’re planted.

Dig a hole or trench about three to four inches deep and mix in a handful of compost. Plant each seed potato piece roughly a foot apart. If planting in rows, space them about two to three feet apart.

After planting, water in your new seed potato pieces slowly and deeply. Cover your hole with a thick bed of mulch like straw, which will help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and prevent sunlight from reaching your tubers. Keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid overwatering and creating soggy soil, especially once the plants begin to flower—this is when the tubers are forming underground.

The Importance of Hilling:

One of the most important care tasks when growing potatoes is “hilling.” As the plants grow and reach about six inches tall, mound soil or compost around the base of each plant to cover the lower stems. Continue to hill every couple of weeks throughout the growing season. This not only prevents sunlight from reaching developing potatoes—which turns them green and toxic—but also encourages the plant to produce more tubers along its buried stems.

Dealing with Pests and Problems:

Potatoes are generally easy to grow, but you may encounter some common issues. Crop rotation is key to avoiding disease—don’t plant potatoes (or other nightshades like tomatoes) in the same spot year after year. Keep an eye out for Colorado potato beetles, which can be hand-picked or treated with organic options like neem oil. Proper spacing, hilling, and avoiding overwatering will also help prevent fungal diseases like blight and rot.

Harvesting and Storing Your Crop:

You can begin harvesting small “new potatoes” once the plants flower, but for full-size potatoes, wait until the foliage begins to yellow and die back. At that point, stop watering and allow the skins to toughen up underground for a couple of weeks. Then, gently dig up your harvest with a garden fork or hands, being careful not to pierce the tubers.

After harvesting, lay the potatoes out in a cool, shaded area to cure for one to two weeks. This helps extend storage life by drying the skin and healing any minor wounds. Store them in a dark, cool (but not freezing) location with good airflow—ideally between 40–50°F. Avoid refrigeration, which can convert the starches into sugar and affect the flavor.

The post Growing Potatoes in Your Garden first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

7 Plants to Grow This Year for Maximum Yield

communications — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 16:02:30 +0000

If you’re looking to grow your own food and take more control over what you eat, starting a garden is one of the best ways to build food sovereignty. Choosing the right plants is key, especially when you’re focused on maximizing yield and ensuring a steady supply of fresh food. Whether you’re growing in pots or in the ground, these seven crops are reliable, productive, and will help you get the most out of your garden throughout the growing season.

1.Tomatoes

Ideal for: Pots and In-ground Beds

Best Time to Plant: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost (mid-April). Transplant outdoors after the last frost (mid to late May).

Start from: Seedlings bought (or start seeds indoors and transplant).

Tomatoes are one of the most productive crops you can grow, offering a reliable harvest of juicy fruit over several months. They can be grown in pots or in garden beds, making them versatile for any space. Early-season varieties like ‘Early Girl’ or ‘Patio Princess’ mature quickly, giving you a jump-start on your harvest. Tomatoes thrive in full sun and need consistent watering, but once established, they’ll produce a high yield that can be used fresh, preserved, or made into sauces and salsas.

2. Zucchini

Ideal for: In-ground Beds

Best Time to Plant: Direct sow seeds after the last frost (mid-May) and again in early July for a second harvest in fall. Plant in well-drained, full-sun areas for a continued yield, but be aware that Denver’s first frost can be unpredictable, so aim for early harvesting.

Start from: Seeds in the ground.

Zucchini is a high-yield vegetable that produces large quantities of fruit throughout the growing season. Once the plants are established, they will continue to produce, making zucchini a great choice for maximizing your garden’s output. These plants thrive in full sun and require little maintenance beyond regular watering and harvesting. With its versatility in the kitchen—whether grilled, baked, or sautéed—zucchini is a great way to ensure you’re consistently harvesting fresh, homegrown food.

3. Radishes

Ideal for: Pots and In-ground Beds

Best Time to Plant: Direct sow seeds 4-6 weeks before the last frost (early to mid-April). And again in mid-July for a fast fall harvest, as they mature quickly.

Start from: Seeds in the ground.

Radishes are one of the quickest-growing crops, ready to harvest in as little as three weeks. This makes them ideal for maximizing the space in your garden and providing fast results. Radishes can be planted in both pots and garden beds, and with multiple plantings, you can have a continuous harvest of fresh, crunchy radishes. They add a peppery bite to salads or can be roasted for a milder flavor. Their quick growth allows you to keep harvesting, boosting your overall yield without much effort.

4. Lettuce

Ideal for: Pots and In-ground Beds

Best Time to Plant: Start seeds indoors early spring (March-April) and transplant outdoors after the last frost. Lettuce can be directly sown in early to mid-August for a fall harvest. Cool-season varieties (like Romaine and Butterhead) are perfect for this time.

Start from: Seedlings bought or seeds in the ground.

Lettuce is a perfect crop for maintaining a steady supply of fresh greens throughout the season. It’s easy to grow and can be harvested multiple times, especially if you harvest individual leaves instead of pulling up the whole plant. Lettuce thrives in cooler weather, so it can be grown in the spring and fall for continuous access to fresh, homegrown salad greens. Whether you grow loose-leaf, romaine, or butterhead varieties, lettuce is an essential part of an ongoing, productive garden.

5. Strawberries

Ideal for: Pots and In-ground Beds

Best Time to Plant: Plant strawberry starts in spring (April-May) or late fall (September-October) to overwinter.

Start from: Seedlings (bare-root or potted plants)

Strawberries are a great way to grow your own fruit and increase the productivity of your garden. Once established, they’ll produce a steady harvest of sweet berries every year. They can be grown in both pots and garden beds, and with proper care, they’ll continue to provide fresh fruit throughout the spring and summer. Strawberries require minimal maintenance and provide a valuable, low-maintenance crop for snacking, making jams, or adding to desserts.

6. Peppers

Ideal for: Pots and In-ground Beds

Best Time to Plant: Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost (early to mid-March), transplant outdoors after the last frost (mid to late May).

Start from: Seedlings bought (or start seeds indoors and transplant).

Peppers are another high-yield crop that can be grown in pots or garden beds. Both sweet peppers, like bell peppers, and hot varieties, like jalapeños, are productive and will continue to yield fruit throughout the summer and into the fall. Peppers require full sun and regular watering but are otherwise easy to care for. They can be used fresh in meals, preserved through drying, or pickled for later use, making them a valuable addition to your garden’s productivity.

7. Cucumbers

Ideal for: Pots and In-ground Beds

Best Time to Plant: Direct sow seeds after the last frost (mid-May), or start indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost and transplant. They can be planted again in early to mid-July for a fall harvest; choose quick-growing, bush-type cucumbers for better chances of success in the shorter growing season.

Cucumbers are a great plant for boosting your garden’s productivity. They grow quickly and continue to produce fruit throughout the growing season, making them a reliable source of fresh food. Whether you choose bush varieties for pots or vining varieties for garden beds, cucumbers thrive in full sun with plenty of water. They’re perfect for salads, pickling, or snacking straight from the vine. With continuous harvests, cucumbers will keep your kitchen stocked with fresh, homegrown produce throughout the summer.

The post 7 Plants to Grow This Year for Maximum Yield first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

Smart Water Use in Colorado

fmk_admin — Tue, 08 Apr 2025 12:52:09 +0000

Water is a limited resource in Colorado. Our climate is dry, with little rain and frequent droughts. Climate change is making water shortages worse, so we must use water wisely.

Wasting water does more than increase costs—it harms the environment. It drains local water supplies, dries up rivers, and damages plant and animal life. Water that runs off or evaporates also washes away soil, making it harder to grow food.

To protect this important resource, Denver Urban Gardens (DUG) requires all gardeners to follow water conservation practices. These are not just for droughts—they should be part of daily gardening. By using water wisely, we can grow healthy gardens and help protect Colorado’s water for the future.

How to Use Water Wisely

Water Slowly in Small Amounts

In some places, farmers flood fields with water to let it soak in. This works well in sandy soil, where water drains quickly. But in Colorado, our soil is mostly clay. Water takes longer to soak in, so if too much is added at once, it pools on top, runs off, and evaporates before plants can use it. This wastes water and causes weak, shallow roots.

Instead, water slowly and deeply so moisture reaches plant roots. The best methods include:

Water at the base of plants to send moisture directly to the roots.
Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to apply water slowly and prevent runoff.
Water in short cycles, letting water soak in before adding more.
Check soil moisture before watering. If the soil is still damp an inch below the surface, wait to water.

Water at the Right Time

Water early in the morning or late in the evening when it is cooler. This reduces water loss from evaporation. Midday watering wastes water because the sun and heat dry it up too quickly.

The Living Light of Peace Community Garden’s water is only turned on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 6am-10am and 6pm-10pm. Please be considerate of other gardeners waiting to water their plots at the same time as you, as multiple people watering at once will cause the water pressure to become low.

Water the Soil, Not the Leaves

Wet leaves can cause plant diseases, especially for tomatoes, squash, and melons. Instead, water at the base of plants where the roots can absorb moisture.

Loosen Soil Before Watering

Use a hoe or rake to break up the top layer of soil. This helps water soak in instead of running off. It also removes weeds that steal water from your plants.

Use Compost to Hold Water

Mix compost into the soil at the beginning of the season and add more during the year. Compost holds water like a sponge, keeping the soil moist longer and reducing the need for frequent watering.

Plant to Create Shade

Space plants so their leaves shade the soil as they grow. Shade helps keep moisture in the soil and prevents evaporation. Tall plants like beans can protect smaller plants like lettuce from the sun.

Cover Bare Soil with Mulch

Mulch helps soil hold water, keeps the ground cool, and prevents erosion. Good mulch materials include:

Dried grass clippings (without pesticides)
Straw
Fallen leaves

Mulch warm-season crops, like tomatoes, after the soil warms up. For cool-season crops, like lettuce and peas, wait a few weeks after planting before adding mulch.

Check Before You Water

Most vegetables need about one inch of water per week. Stick your finger or a small tool into the soil to check for moisture before watering. Dry soil needs water, but damp soil does not.

Wilting Doesn’t Always Mean Watering

Some plants, like squash, droop in the heat of the day to protect themselves. This does not mean they need water. Watering them at this time can actually harm the plant by weakening its roots. Check the soil first before watering.

Use the Right Watering Tools

A watering wand with a shutoff nozzle lets you direct water to the soil instead of wasting it on leaves.
A soaker hose applies water slowly, helping it soak deep into the soil without runoff.

Harvest Often

Pick vegetables regularly to keep plants healthy. If plants become overgrown or diseased, remove them and plant something new or cover the soil with mulch.

The post Smart Water Use in Colorado first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.

What Are Microclimates and Why Do They Matter?

fmk_admin — Thu, 13 Mar 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Microclimates are localized climate variations that differ from the surrounding environment due to factors such as sunlight, wind, soil composition, and proximity to structures. These small-scale differences can significantly impact plant growth, creating pockets of warmth, coolness, dryness, or moisture within a single garden.

For gardeners, understanding microclimates is essential for optimizing plant placement, extending the growing season, and improving overall plant health.

Common Microclimates in the Front Range

South-Facing Walls and Heat Sinks In Denver’s high-altitude climate, a south-facing wall or fence absorbs heat during the day and radiates it at night, creating a warmer microclimate. This area can be used to grow heat-loving plants such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants that might otherwise struggle with cool nighttime temperatures.
Shaded and Cooler Areas Gardens with north-facing slopes and buildings that block sunlight create cooler microclimates. These areas are perfect for shade-tolerant crops like lettuce, spinach, and kale, which can bolt quickly in Denver’s summer heat. Planting salad greens near deciduous trees can extend their growing season, providing ample sunlight before leaves emerge and dappled shade with cooler soil conditions for optimal growth. Additionally, using trellises with vining plants like peas and beans create artificial shade that can extend the growing season for cool-weather crops.
Windbreaks and Sheltered Spots Denver’s occasional strong winds can dry out soil and damage delicate plants. Using fences, shrubs, or dense plantings to create a windbreak can provide protection. For example, a well-placed hedge of native chokecherries or serviceberries can buffer against winds while also providing edible berries for both humans and wildlife. Furthermore, root crops such as carrots, radish and beets can often be planted in windy areas that would damage above ground crops
Raised Beds and Containers Raised beds and containers heat up more quickly in the spring, allowing for an earlier start to the growing season. In Denver’s Zone 6a, raised beds filled with well-draining soil can help mitigate cold soil temperatures in spring and extend the productive period of crops like carrots, beets, and radishes. Additionally, using black or dark-colored pots can create mini heat islands, perfect for growing warmth-loving herbs like basil and rosemary.
Low Spots and Moisture-Retaining Areas Natural depressions in the landscape tend to collect moisture and remain cooler. These areas are ideal for moisture-loving plants like rhubarb, lettuce, spinach and berries. However, they may also be prone to frost pockets, so careful placement of tender plants is necessary.
Slopes and Elevation Changes Slopes create natural microclimates due to differences in water runoff, sun exposure, and temperature. South-facing slopes receive more direct sunlight and warm up faster in the spring, making them ideal for heat-loving crops like squash and peppers. North-facing slopes, on the other hand, stay cooler and retain moisture longer, making them well-suited for leafy greens and perennials that prefer cooler conditions. Additionally, cold air tends to settle in lower areas, creating frost pockets, while higher elevations stay slightly warmer at night. In Denver, planting fruit trees like peaches on the north side of a structure or slope can help delay blooming in early spring, reducing the risk of damage from late frosts.

How to Utilize Microclimates

Observe your yard: Track sunlight, wind patterns, and temperature differences throughout the year.
Group plants strategically: Place heat-loving plants in warmer microclimates and cool-weather crops in shaded areas.
Modify conditions: Use mulch to retain moisture, add reflective surfaces to increase warmth, and plant windbreaks where needed.

By harnessing the power of microclimates, you can maximize your garden’s potential and grow a diverse range of plants suited to Denver’s climate.

The post What Are Microclimates and Why Do They Matter? first appeared on Denver Urban Gardens.